How to Install a Toilet
Learn how to securely set a new toilet bowl onto the flange, seat the wax ring or foam seal, level the porcelain base, and connect the water supply without cracking.
This guide shows how to install a toilet in 45-75 minutes. Start with prep flange and set closet bolts; follow the safety notes and step checkpoints below.
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- Read the tools, materials, safety notes, and steps below for free.
- Tap See 20-second demo if you want to understand it first.
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- Allow camera and microphone. Point your phone at the work; the coach watches your progress and tells you the next step.
🧰 Required Tools & Equipment
- ✓ Adjustable wrench
- ✓ Torpedo level
- ✓ Mini hacksaw
- ✓ Tape measure
- ✓ Sponge or rag
📦 Materials & Supplies
- ✓ Toilet bowl and tank kit
- ✓ Wax ring or rubber gasket seal
- ✓ Closet bolts with brass nuts and plastic washers
- ✓ Flexible braided water supply line
- ✓ Plastic toilet shims
⚠️ Safety Checkpoints & Warnings
- • Stuff an old rag into the open drain flange to block toxic sewer gases until the moment you install the seal.
- • Lift the heavy porcelain bowl using your legs, keeping the weight close to your torso to prevent back strain.
- • Never over-tighten bolts against vitreous china; excess torque will crack the porcelain instantly.
📋 Step-by-Step Guide (6 Steps)
Prep Flange and Set Closet Bolts
Remove the temporary rag from the waste pipe. Slide the brass T-bolts into the flange slots, positioning them parallel to the rear wall and equidistant from the back baseboard. Slide the thin plastic retaining washers down over the bolt threads to hold them rigidly upright.
- • Two brass bolts standing perfectly vertical in the flange channels
- • Both bolts measure the exact same distance from the rear wall
- • Leaving the sewer rag inside the drain pipe before mounting the seal
- • Failing to use retaining washers, causing bolts to slide or fall over during bowl placement
Install the Base Seal
Place the wax ring or modern rubber seal directly over the drain flange, centering the horn collar into the pipe opening. Alternatively, stick the seal onto the bottom horn of the toilet bowl if using a traditional wax ring. Ensure the sealing surface is clean and free of old wax chunks.
- • Wax or rubber ring centered squarely over the flange collar
- • No gaps or debris between the seal bottom and the flange face
- • Stacking multiple wax rings unevenly over an above-floor flange
- • Smearing or deforming the wax prior to setting the bowl
Lower and Seat the Toilet Bowl
Straddle the drain flange and lift the bowl by the rim. Align the holes in the porcelain base directly over the upright closet bolts and gently lower the bowl straight down. Press down firmly with your body weight on the center of the bowl to compress the seal fully onto the floor.
- • Closet bolts protruding upward through both side mounting holes
- • Porcelain base resting flat against the finished floor with no hovering
- • Rocking the bowl side-to-side, which breaks the airtight seal of a wax ring
- • Dropping the bowl roughly, causing the base or flange to crack
Level and Secure the Bowl
Place a torpedo level across the bowl rim front-to-back and side-to-side. Slide plastic shims under any low spots until level and stable. Slip the plastic cap washer (labeled 'THIS SIDE UP') followed by the metal washer and nut onto each bolt, alternating turns with an adjustable wrench until snug.
- • Bubble centered on the level in both directions
- • Bowl does not rock when downward pressure is applied to the edges
- • Nuts tightened evenly until firm resistance is felt
- • Overtightening the nuts with heavy leverage until the porcelain base snaps
- • Tightening one side completely before starting the other, causing an uneven tilt
Trim Bolts and Snap on Caps
Use a mini hacksaw to cut the excess closet bolt length approximately 1/4 inch above the top of the tightened nut. Be careful not to let the saw blade scrape or scratch the porcelain base. Press the decorative plastic bolt caps firmly onto the base washers until they click securely into place.
- • Cut bolt ends sit low enough for caps to seat flush against the base
- • Plastic snap caps locked tightly in place over both mounting bolts
- • Cutting bolts too high so the cap cannot snap down over the washer
- • Scuffing the white porcelain glaze with the saw teeth
Connect Supply Line and Leak Test
Thread a new flexible braided supply line from the shutoff valve to the fill valve shank under the tank, tightening by hand plus a 1/4 turn with a wrench. Turn on the main water valve slowly and let the tank fill. Flush several times while inspecting the base perimeter and supply connections with a dry tissue for any moisture.
- • Water fills to the indicator line inside the tank and shuts off automatically
- • Tissue wiped around the floor base and water fittings stays completely dry
- • Cross-threading the plastic threads on the fill valve inlet shank
- • Reusing an old, worn rubber-gasketed supply line that leaks under pressure
Credit: inspired by an original tutorial by Everyday Home Repairs — watch the original on YouTube.
Don’t have everything?
- No Mini hacksaw? Heavy-duty bolt cutters or multi-tool with metal cutting blade
- No Plastic toilet shims? Cut pieces of durable vinyl tile or composite shims